Thursday, August 4, 2011

Sawatdi jak muang Thai na kha

Holy crap, I'm really in Thailand.  I opened up my lap top to write tonight and the whole shebang came up in Thai.

First, let me just tell you all that I can't wait for my kids to arrive tomorrow.  I feel like I'm waiting in paradise for them, and they're going to step off the plane into complete chaos but slowly I'll be able to reveal to them that this.is.living.the.dream.  For rizzle.

I left the US in the daytime.  Then I didn't pay attention to the windows for the entire flight, and arrived in BKK in the middle of the night.  My principal (YES, my PRINCIPAL) picked me up at the airport and took me back to the SWEET garden style hotel I am staying at until our SWEET apartment is ready tomorrow.  I came in, wrestled and killed a human sized cockroach (to which my principal replied, "Nice.  First kill."), turned on the air, gave my principal some smoked samon and a hug for his kindness, then fell face first into bed and didn't wake up until the Tookay woke me up in the morning.  For those of you not in the know, Tookays are these larger than life lizards that scream at you their name "Tookay Tookay Tookay," just so you don't forget what they're called.  I opened my door to the first light of the day, my first day light since the US, and HOLY CRAP.  I knew I was in the right place.  Home.  Seriously. 

Palm trees, sputtering motorcycles, cooing of mourning doves, hot and sweaty city smell, and the unreplicable feeling of being in Thailand. Fantastic.

Right now I am sitting outside my room, listening to a call to prayer -as amazingly the school is in the Thai Muslim section of town-and feeling like there is no way I can express to you my happiness and peaceful feeling at the sensation, knowledge and awareness that I'm in the right place.

In addition to this absolute satisfaction of being back here, I am also blown away by the school.  Teacher friends, I've found Paradise.  This is where really good teachers go when we die.  The school is the Rolls Royce of international schools, dare I say of any type of school in general, and their IB diploma graduation rate, PISA results, and general high achievement of the students are the type of testimony that big wigs and data crunchers salivate over.  But if you're just into good teaching, doing what's right by students, working collaboratively with some exceptionally creative and well rounded individuals, then this is where it's at.  This is where "what works" meets reality.  This is also where the best educators you can assemble in one room assemble in one room.  I've met some highly impressive people, not just their titles of previous manifestations of their lives, but their creative ideas and open mindedness.  It was really not a surprise to me to learn that 3,000 people applied for our 40 jobs.  The school has a reputation for excellence, and I can see after just one day of orientation that there is a solid, valid reason for that.

To boot, as if I need anything more than just to be in Thailand at an amazing school, there is a Mexican restaurant just 10-15 minutes walk from where I am staying.  I really don't mean to sound so shallow, but the school sponsored dinner for us tonight, all 40 of us newbies, and included an open bar tab.  I mean, seriously???????  You had me at "Thailand"!!!

And (there's MORE????!), my Peace Corps friends, you'll appreciate this the most.  After a great meal, great conversation, and three margaritas, I was walking back to my hotel when I passed the mandatory 7-11 that must be on every other street corner.  I was toasty warm from my buzz, happy from a day of high stimulation, and thought it couldn't get any better.  But then I saw him.  The Roti Man.  For those of you that don't know what it is, I guess it's like crepes or something.  But I can only just describe him as Angelic.  He produces pieces of Heaven that you can eat.  His mission in life is delivering the Yum.  And he was right there.  I mean, come on.

So tonight, I am well friends.  Happy, content, confident, and optimistic about what this turn on my course will bring.

Sawatdi, and good night.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

The Great Universe Conspiracy

In his book The Alchemist, Paolo Coelho brings up the notion that regardless of race, creed, religious prescription, so forth, the Universe is engaged in this mighty conspiracy-for our happiness.  I think we find that in most folk tales, myths, and even modern popular religous ideology, we accept this notion, although we call it different things- Divine Providence, the Hand of God, Fate, Destiny, we tout that metaphor of God closing a door but opening a window...in all of those examples, you find both personal and impersonal justification for the change of events, the sudden change of mind, obstacles and road blocks that send you on a detour to some place safer perhaps, or beautiful, or life changing.  Personally, I like Coelho's idea that the Universe is somewhat devious, subversive, and sneaky about finding ways to please us, protect us, and ultimately bring joy.  It's the best possible conspiracy theory I've ever heard of- because I'm not the type of person to go asking for things.  I don't pray.  I don't light incense or make merit.  I don't throw coins into fountains or even play the lottery.
And yet, my life is full of things for which I am astoundingly thankful.  Things that, left to my own devices, would be like those lopsided "mugs" I made in pottery class, or the dried up, weedy yard I neglected despite my best intentions to produce the greenest yard in America.
So it's with this attitude that I am explaining my recent, sudden, change of plans.

My last blog explained that the job in Arizona was beginning to look a little tangled and complex.  In fact, over the days following that post, I found out several things that I had not expected.  One, you can't get to Supai and escape oppressive bureaucracies without passing through the MOTHER of all bureaucratic gauntlets:  I needed to be fingerprinted by the Department of Public Safety in AZ, then when that was complete, I could only then apply for an AZ teaching certificate, when I had the certificate in hand, only then could I get fingerprinted (again) by the Bureau of Indian Education.  Only after the completion of these three things, could I have a contract.  Only with a contract, could I moved to Supai.  Barring any other unexpected requirements, I wasn't going to land in Supai until October.  Key point- that is only if any other unexpected hoops didn't appear.

At first, I thought-fuck.

Then I thought, ok, I really want this, so I can make it work by....(insert creative, optimistic, and heartfelt plans).

During a moment of deconstructed resolution, I contacted my second choice option- the International School of Bangkok.  I'd interviewed with them in May, but they didn't have a position available.  Chances were, they wouldn't either until the following year.  But when I emailed the Principal and inquired about a possible change, within four days I was fast tracked through the screening process and the next thing I knew, was talking to a delightful man who claimed to be the Deputy Head of School, who offered me a job.

I need to take a second to share with you the irony of this change.  Among international educators, a job at the International School of Bangkok is one of the most coveted positions out there.  It's one of the best international schools in the world, and to be the best, they give the best incentive package as well.  The only way to describe this change of events was summed up by my friend Greg.  He said, "so, you're going from a third world school in a first world country to a first world school in a third world county."  From Supai to Bangkok, in 4 days, can only be one of those conspiracies engineered by that nutty Universe.

So, you might be wondering, if I'm happier or still festering in disappointment.  My only response to that question is the same one I give to my boys, when they insist on determining which of them I love more than the other.  I love them both, for different reasons.  Supai, for it's raw, natural beauty, simplicity, isolation and great challenge that it would offer the kids through which they would examine who they are in this world of ours.  Bangkok, for it's excellent education, position as the hub of SE Asia and all that entails, ease and familiarity of language and culture, and opportunity for my kids to explore their cultural, linguistic heritage and grow close to their Thai family members who will be living within a stones throw of where we will be living (my RPCV friends will understand why I appreciate that the living quarters are in a gated community, so those "we're just dropping by" visits at unexpected times are out of the question).

So, suffice it to say, the Universe continues to conspire for our happiness, in ways that will always keep us on our toes.  I am willingly accepting this change, as I believe that by throwing your life against the wall to see what sticks is only half the fun (and really ONLY fun if it makes a big mess).  The other half is letting go of the sense that you're in this alone.  There really is a method to the madness that I determine to be the way I live my life, and I'm happy to say that in either case, what's sticks is the undeniable fact that my friends get me and honor the choices I make in life, that my kids are super awesome and up for anything that is coming our way, and that while Adam and I are facing a separation that is not coincidental with our departure, we are still able to rally that spirit of collaboration and friendship in order to make decisions together in the best interest of our children.

For those of you interested, here is a link to the school:  http://www.isb.ac.th/

As for me personally, I'm continuing to get my head around going back to Thailand, only this time as one of those expats I always scorned and snubbed.  Case in point:  I'm writing this in a Starbucks, and at one point when I got up to go to the bathroom I passed the shelf of coffee and coffee presses.  I thought, 'Oh man.  I'm going to have to stock up on those in order to avoid that instant coffee crap I was subjected to for 2 years.'  But then I remembered, in the gated community where they will house us and where the school is located, across the street from the school....is a Starbucks.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Test of patience

So what would you do if after you resigned from your job, and are putting your house up for sale (eh, at least going through the motions in this economy) and basically did that behemouth undertaking to turn your lifecourse in a new direction, and had just finalized all necessary plans and plane reservations to get there when you're supposed to report on August 8th...and then have someone in the business office say, "well, the red tape that is involved in a background check could last as long as the end of September, so you might have to wait that long to be able to move out here/get paid/get health insurance/register your kids in the school."

Seriously, what would you do?  I cried.  For just a few minutes, and then I talked it out with a friend (shout out, GM, thanks for letting me blubber).
See, if I were 20 and not 40, and single and not with 3 little, bright eyed dependents, I'd go to Guatemala or Mexico.  At least, that's what I have done in the past during these "spells" of flux and uncertainty.  So I took a moment to think about this crisis:  so what do you do in this situation when you have kids? 

Here are a few things I considered:

1.  Cancel everything.Call my boss, tell her I've dramatically changed my mind, and am staying in my current position. 
2. Cancel some of it. Move, still, but only as far as North Carolina.  Shack up near sis, start again there, and try to battle the economic demands that would probably keep me right where I am today.
3.  Freak out and pursue that other job offer in Bangkok.
4.  Freak out.
5.  Freak out.
6.  Freak out.

Or,
7.  Keep going forward and see what happens. 

After talking with the Superintendant of the BIE schools in that area, who hired me, and hearing how absolutely certain he was that he had the clout and superpowers to expedite the paperwork and would move heaven and earth to get me to the Rez on time, I did something that was really hard.  I put my trust in authority.  Options 1-6 above were mighty tempting, but option 7 really seemed to be the most rationale one.  And besides, the reason I cried in the first place was because my heart broke, because for a little bit there, I was seriously teetering on the side of FUCK THIS I'M NOT GOING THIS IS TOO MUCH TO DEAL WITH. 

I'm writing this in the blog, which thanks for reading by the way (it makes me feel like you're in this with me, friends), because I'm telling you, don't change your life unless you're ready to face the consequences.  There are some big ones, like your husband asking you why you're suddenly having a mid-life crisis, and people stepping back with looks of shock (and you wonder, are they contemplating calling CPS?  Cuz who does this to their kids?), and all those other things.  Like, look around your house.  Would you move now?  Yeesh.

But I'm also saying, if you're willing to take on those consequences because you believe that the promised land on the otherside of ambiguity is really flowing with milk and honey, and not the crap you're slogging through in your present life, then, go for it.  Because living life is more than just taking one breath after the other.  It's about reaching out to friends (shout out, AP, for assuring me we won't be homeless out West), and trusting in others when you are really just a diehard control freak, or acknowledging that giving up the sensation of control can be a relief to some degree, because you're trying to believe in something greater, more competent, than yourself. 

Wednesday, June 22, 2011

What the heck am I doing???????????????

So I suppose the title says it all.  Lately I've been feeling a little "buyer's remorse," not enough to change direction but certainly enough to occasionally stop walking and stare at the ceiling wondering, 'what is wrong with me?' or to sit through a cycle of a red-green-yellow-red light because I'm distractedly wondering if I've really given this enough thought or perhaps, I need a few more months (give or take a few years) to really consider what it means that I'd move my children and myself to about 7,000 feet down and 8 miles into one of the Wonders of the World.  Just sayin'.  It's kind of a big thing.
So for you all who are wondering, what is she, nuts?  I suppose the answer is, Jen Kreps Frisch says I'm not.  For you all who know Jen, you know that doesn't hold much water.  Sorry, Krepsy.  But she did point out that you're sane as long as you wonder if you're actually crazy.  She's right, you know.  Those guys mumbling to themselves in puddles of their own pee, they wouldn't actually say, "I think I'm losing it."  In fact, they'll tell you all about the reasons why everyone else is insane and they're the ones with all the reasonable answers and explanations that we refuse to acknowledge, if you ask.  I did that.  Once.

So, I'm at this fabulous training for the IB in a nice urban city on the East coast this week.  I'm leading a workshop, getting newcomers to the IB to come to Jesus and drink the Kool Aid (I have no qualms about mixing metaphors) to be 21st century educators.  My participants are actually some of the nicest people I've ever met, considering I'm bombarding them with a brain dump of highly complex pedagogy and practice.  As they filed out today, our second of three days of said brain dump, they're actually thanking me, telling me how helpful it is and how much they are learning.  It occurs to me, I'm really good at this.  I really know my stuff.  Throw any question at me, no matter how far you reach with your "what if...," I know where all the dust bunnies are under the IB couch, where the loop holes are, and even what's coming in years ahead because I know the moles in the Europe office. 
And I'm walking away from it all.
I'm a master teacher and teacher trainer, and yet I'm going to probably one of the few places I could go where the kids are going to take my butt, wrap it up with a neat little bow, and hand it back to me- probably all within the first few minutes I've been with them.  I am telling you, I've been fairly warned.  When I was down there, the superintendant closed the door and said to me and the two other hopeful applicants, "Just so you know, we have discipline problems here."  He then noticed the school psychologist out the window, and called him in.  He also closed the door, and said, "Just so you know, we have discipline problems here."  Not much long after that, the principal said directly to me, "You don't cry easily, do you?  Because just so you know, we have discipline problems here."  You don't say.
I understand that the kids who find it amusing to climb on the roof of the school during the school day will point to the cliffs and say, "what's so dangerous about being up here?  I was up there yesterrday."  It's also my understanding that they just might, so I've been told, tell me to fuck off and leave the classroom (but at least turning off the lights when they leave, the principal remarked).  And then apparently, there's the turning over of desks and fighting with one another at random intervals.
Confronted with this reality, I really do wonder, what the heck am I doing? 

Friday, June 10, 2011

Getting my head around this


The village, from the helicopter.

So it begins, the next chapter of what has already been a very busy, and adventurous,  life.  This time, the three most important little people in my life are coming with me, and will participate in this adventure with the innocence and wonder of childhood.  That said, I hope they don't hate it.


That is just one of the many conflicting thoughts I've had over the last several months.  It might be that one day, I feel as if I've stumbled upon what is going to be the greatest experience of my life.  But the next day, I might be wondering if perhaps I am overshooting my scope of capabilities and reasoning and am in fact, just having a mid-life crisis and should just take some time to think about this.  Not that I haven't.  Not that I haven't been thinking about it almost 24/7 for the past two months. 

What you see to the left and below are pictures of my trip out there, to interview in person.  They say (whoever "they" are) that the best interviews are the ones in which you're checking out your prospective employers as much as they are checking you out.  So I went, with heart, mind and eyes wide open. 

I owe much to my friends, not the least money, but that which I'll never be able to repay is the unconditional acceptance of my need for fulfillment in unconventional ways.  My beautiful friend Kristin called me from the tarmac of the airport after her flight from Korea had just touched down, just because she'd been thinking of me while she was vacationing there.  I told her I was heading to the Grand Canyon for an interview, and her immediate response was, "I'll go with you." 
The Grand Canyon, from the helicopter.

So indeed, off we went.  Have you ever felt like your best laid plans were actually pretty lame, and that there was a higher force intervening to keep you from having a monumentally horrible experience?  From getting the very last seat on a morning stand by flight to the relief when the car rental agency didn't notice the black scratch marks on the roof of the white car from my camera, I can say there was a compassionate hand guiding us along our way. 

The landscape was amazing.  Kristin pointed out after a few hours that I kept taking in deep breathes, and I realized, "I can breath out here."  We must have looked sufficiently important in my little suit dress shoes, since they let us take the first flight into the village on the helicopter the morning of my interview, and even let me sit in the front.  I got to take in four and a half minutes of the view as we propelled through the canyon to the village.  It was the most amazing vista I'd ever seen in my life, a monument to the forces of nature and brilliance of the color spectrum.

Finally, after a day spent in the village in interviews and mingling with the local kids at a some-what-out-of-the-way swimming hole (far enough from the main drag that the kids froze mid-swandive and head-dunking when we emerged from the brush, until we asked if we could join them), I decided this was the place to go next.  I keep trying to figure out why exactly.  I think I have a few things worked out, but I also know that over the next year or so, I will come to know more reasons why I was called to join the teaching staff at Havasupai Elementary School.